Granada

After staying in Almerimar for a week we got to learn a lot about the Cruising Community, which many of the cruisers are year round live aboard. Each day at 1000am the Cruiser’s Network is aired on VHF Channel 68. This is run by cruisers for cruisers to know the happenings of the area, the latest social events, what is for sale, and to discuss a most important subject: The Weather. We learned about the Sunday Market which is held each week in the Marina; where everyone goes to meet friends, buy either hardware or software for the boat or oneself. On Sunday, November 27, Jeff and I took a look at all the goods for sale and one thing in particular jumped out at us. We noticed these really lovely wool sweaters for sale. (I already have two for this trip; I can never have enough heat) Jeff and I passed the table two times, talked about the sweater; how he needs one (he only brought one fleece to meet his warmth needs). After the third pass, Jeff asked the lady selling the sweaters some questions and we found out they are hand made, it takes over a month for each to be completed and the wool is machine washable. The sweater knitters name is Barit, a Norwegian who lives with her husband aboard Balu, a motor yacht. After Jeff decided to purchase she invited us to a holiday party she and her husband were throwing later in the afternoon. We were told wine and dessert would be served all we needed to do was bring our cups.

At the party we met Barit and her neighbors, Ed and Kathy Garcia, Americans living aboard. They left the Maryland/ DC area this summer with their three children, ages 15, 13, and 11. They met their boat in Gibraltar and sailed as far as Almerimar. The Garcia’s found it challenging to work on home schooling while sailing so they decided to winter in Spain. Their goal is to get finished with the home schooling as early as March, when the weather begins to turn nice here in the Med and make their way east to the Greek Islands. Ed and Kathy invited us aboard their yacht, a 45’Jeanneau and showed us about living aboard with shore power. They had a flat screen TV, 3 Mac laptops, a microwave, a heater, pretty much every creature comfort any home might have in the good old USA. It was great to see a different boat and a family living aboard. We learned much from speaking with Ed and Kathy, especially that we should take the bus to our vacation destination Granada.

On Monday we got a ride to the bus station in El Ejido, the closest big town near Almerimar. We hopped on the 1000am bus bound for Granada. We were not sure if we were going to make a full day and return Monday night or stay over and return Tuesday. Thankfully Quest was not going to leave with out us so we had a little wiggle room to work with. The bus ride took us along the coastal towns of Spain to the main city of Motril, that is where we began our assent of the mountain hills to the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range (we think this one has had its name a longer time than the one in California). We arrived in Granada around 1300. We found an information booth and asked some general questions: Where to stay, how far the Alhambra is, the best restaurants, etc. In less than 5 minutes we decided to stay the night, had a hotel room, and knew where we would have lunch or perhaps dinner.

We jumped on the 33 bus to the center of town, but in my haste we exited too soon. In the scheme of things it was good that we did, the bus was packed with people and we ended up being about six blocks from where we needed to be.

Our first stop was a Tapas bar named the Rivera. If you order a round of drinks you can have yourself a free tapa (bit of food). Most places serve meatballs or sausage, potatoe or pasta salad, calamari, or olives with ham. The more rounds of drinks, the more food you get. We had three rounds and three types of tapas.

We took off to our hotel Casa de Federico named for the famous writer Federico Garcia Lorca. The owners of the hotel purchased the building, saved most of its historic architecture and added a few modern conveniences. We liked the place instantly especially because we were able to get a room with a king size bed and a spa tub! Another great feature from this rustic Casa is the view of city including, the Alhambra, the Cathedral, and the beautiful snow cover Sierra Nevada Mountains. The hotel has been written up in different travel magazines, but check for yourself: casadefederico.com

We spent a bit of time getting to know our surroundings by taking a walk down the block, as some of you have noticed Jeff was sporting a beard. We found a barber and Jeff got a hair cut and the “Barber of Granada” treatment. Finally I can kiss his face again! We continued our walk about and realized that everyone is out with the Christmas buzz going shopping for gifts. Time gets a bit warped living on a boat. What might be commonplace in society is often not so common aboard. We did get a bit of Christmas cheer whilst the crowd among us shopped!

We awoke on Tuesday morning, showered, got dressed and headed for the Alhambra. The Alhambra is one of the greatest accomplishments of Islamic art and architecture. The Alhambra was a Palace, a citadel, a fortress, and a home of the Nasrid Sultans, high government officials, servants of the court, and elite soldiers.

The Alcazaba, the Alhambra’s fortress dates from the 11^th and 13^th centuries. The horses and armies were stationed here at the front of the Alhambra. The towers and wall it would have been hard to defeat such a stronghold.

The Palacio Nazaries was built for Granada’s Muslim rulers in the 13^th and 15^th centuries. It is the centerpiece of the Alhambra. The beauty of the woodwork and ceramics, the patios, and the fountains show the craftsmanship of the century. Water is the central element in all the different buildings. The water flows from well engineered aqueducts.

The General Life was built for the Muslim ruler as a little escape from the court. The ruler and his family would spend time in the General Life relaxing by the pools, or hanging out in the gardens. It was the home away from the big home so to speak.

After the Christian conquest of Granada, the Alhambra became crown property of Spain. Charles V had the title of Emperor and decided to build an imperial residence adjacent to the Palacio Nazaries. The Palace of Charles V is one of the most significant examples of Italian Renaissance outside of Italy.

We finished the trip to the Alhambra by walking down the hillside from which it stands. On our way down we were stopped by a gypsy woman, she began telling our fortune. She seemed sweet at first and when she was finished it seems as though Jeff did not give her enough Euros because she seemed ticked. Oh well, if we get the fortune she spewed about we’ll be happy, if not, we’ll still be happy.